Calico Fabric

Calico is incredibly versatile. Its primary use in dressmaking is for creating “toiles” (inexpensive test garments or mock-ups) before cutting into expensive fashion fabric. Beyond fashion design, its sturdy, natural weave makes it highly popular for embroidery backing, bag making, canvas painting, quilting, and rustic home decor.

Calico is a type of cotton fabric, but it is unbleached and not fully processed. While standard cotton poplin or lawn has been bleached, dyed, and treated to be smooth and crisp, calico is woven from half-processed cotton fibres. This is why calico retains a slightly rougher texture and features tiny, natural cotton seed husks throughout the weave.

Yes, calico is famous for shrinking! Because it is completely raw and untreated, it will shrink significantly the first time it meets hot water (often up to 10%). If you are making a reusable item like a tote bag or curtains, you must pre-wash the fabric on a hot cycle before sewing. If you are using it purely for dressmaking toiles that won’t be washed, pre-washing isn’t necessary.

Yes, calico is one of the easiest fabrics in the world to dye. Because it is 100% natural, untreated cotton, it absorbs machine and hand dyes brilliantly. Just remember to pre-wash the calico first to remove any natural sizing or starch left over from the manufacturing process, which will ensure your dye takes evenly.