Lace Fabric

The four main types of lace fabric used in dressmaking are:

• Corded Lace: Features a fine raised cord outlining the floral design, adding weight and structure.

• Stretch Lace: Blended with elastane/spandex, offering comfortable four-way stretch for fitted garments and dancewear.

• Guipure Lace: A heavy, motif-based lace woven without a mesh background, creating a bold cut-out pattern.

• Embroidered Net: Lightweight tulle or mesh backing embroidered with intricate threadwork or sequins.

Yes, lace fabric usually requires a lining unless it is being used for sheer garment overlays, sleeves, or decorative panels. Smooth underlay textiles such as satin, cotton lawn, lining fabric, or stretch jersey are commonly placed beneath lace to provide opacity, ensure skin comfort, and create visual contrast that highlights the intricate lace pattern.

To sew lace fabric cleanly without snagging or puckering, follow these key steps:

• Needles: Use a fresh Microtex or Stretch needle (size 70/10 or 80/12).

• Stitch Setting: Use a narrow zigzag stitch or a short straight stitch to allow natural movement.

• Stabilising: Place tissue paper or tear-away wash stabiliser beneath delicate sheer net lace to prevent the feed dogs from pulling the mesh into the needle plate.

• Finishing: Construct seams using French seams or a narrow overlock stitch for a clean, invisible finish.

Most synthetic lace fabrics (polyester or nylon) do not fray severely because the synthetic fibres are bonded during manufacture. To secure raw cut edges, carefully trim around the decorative floral motifs using sharp embroidery scissors, stitch a narrow satin/zigzag edge along cut borders, or apply a small drop of liquid seam sealant to raw thread ends.