Sweatshirt Fabric

The main difference lies in the construction of the reverse side of the material and its overall weight. French terry features soft, unbrushed loops on the back, making it a lighter, highly breathable option that is perfect for year-round loungwear and layering. Standard sweatshirt fabric (often called brushed-back fleece) has had those internal loops mechanically brushed out into a fuzzy, plush nap. This process traps air more efficiently, providing significantly more thermal insulation and weight for cold-weather hoodies.

Because sweatshirt material is a knitted textile, you should never use a standard universal needle, as it can pierce and tear the knit loops, causing unravelling. Always use a Ballpoint or Jersey needle (size 80/12 for lighter French terry, or 90/14 for heavy brushed fleece). The rounded tip of a ballpoint needle gently pushes between the fabric yarns rather than cutting through them. If your machine is skipping stitches due to the thickness of the fleece, upgrading to a specialized Stretch needle will instantly solve the issue.

Yes, sweatshirt fabrics—especially high-quality options with a high cotton content—are prone to shrinking by up to 5% to 8% on their first wash. Knitted cotton loops naturally tighten up when exposed to water agitation and heat. To ensure your handmade hoodies and joggers maintain their perfect fit after construction, it is essential to pre-wash your yardage at 30°C and dry it naturally before cutting out your pattern pieces.

Absolutely! While an overlocker (serger) creates beautiful factory-finish edges, you can easily achieve professional results using a standard domestic sewing machine. Because sweatshirting is a knit fabric, you must use a machine stitch that stretches with the fabric so the seams do not snap when the garment is worn. Opt for a narrow zigzag stitch (0.5 width, 2.5 length) or your machine’s built-in stretch stitch, and finish any raw edges using a classic three-step zigzag to prevent fraying.