Denim Fabric

Traditional, classic denim is made from 100% cotton yarn woven in a sturdy twill pattern, which gives it its famous durability and diagonal ribbed texture. However, modern dressmaking denim is frequently blended with synthetic fibres.

“Stretch denim” includes 1% to 3% elastane (spandex) for comfort and flexibility, while other blends may include polyester to prevent shrinking and wrinkling. Always check the composition on the specific product page.

Yes, pre-washing denim is absolutely essential for two reasons. First, 100% cotton denim is notorious for shrinking (often up to 10%) during its first hot wash.

Second, indigo dye is heavily saturated and prone to “crocking” or bleeding colour onto your hands, sewing machine, and lighter garments. Always wash your denim yardage separately on a hot cycle before cutting your pattern.

Denim is a densely woven, heavy fabric that will easily snap a standard sewing needle. You must use a specialized “Denim” or “Jeans” needle.

These needles have a reinforced, ultra-sharp point designed to pierce through multiple layers of heavy twill without bending. Use a size 90/14 for medium-weight stretch denim, and a heavy-duty size 100/16 or 110/18 for thick, 100% cotton denim.

When sewing flat-felled seams on jeans or attaching heavy pockets, the layers of denim can quickly become too thick for a domestic sewing machine to handle. To reduce bulk, use a tool called a “bulky seam jumper” or “hump jumper” to keep your presser foot level.

Alternatively, you can carefully grade your seam allowances (trimming the hidden layers to different widths) and forcefully beat the thick seams flat using a tailor’s clapper and steam before stitching.