Tartan Fabric

In modern dressmaking, the terms are often used interchangeably. However, historically, a tartan refers to a specific pattern associated with a Scottish clan or region, featuring interlocking stripes. Plaid is a more general term used to describe any checkered or criss-cross pattern. Whether you call it tartan, plaid, or check, we stock a huge variety of these classic designs.

For most sewing projects, a Polyviscose (PV) tartan is the best choice. It is a medium-weight fabric that holds a crisp pleat beautifully—essential for kilts and school uniforms. Unlike pure wool, polyviscose is much more affordable, less itchy to wear, and can be safely machine-washed, making it highly practical for everyday clothing.

Pattern matching tartans requires a bit of extra planning. When cutting out your pattern pieces, you must ensure that the horizontal and vertical stripes line up at the side seams. This usually means you will need to buy an extra 0.5 to 1 metre of fabric to allow for careful placement. Always cut your pieces in a single layer rather than on the fold for the most accurate results.

Most polyviscose and wool-blend tartans have a stable, twill weave, but the cut edges can still fray over time. To ensure your garment lasts, it is best to finish your internal seams with an overlocker or a zig-zag stitch. If you are making a traditional kilt, the vertical raw edge is often frayed intentionally to create a decorative fringe, which is then secured with a line of stitching.