T-shirting Fabrics

The most popular fabric for making T-shirts is Cotton Jersey, specifically ‘Single Jersey’. It is a lightweight, breathable knitted fabric. For a classic, slightly structured T-shirt, 100 percent cotton is ideal. For a more fitted garment like a slim-fit top or leggings, look for a cotton jersey blend that includes a small percentage of elastane or lycra for better stretch and recovery.

Single jersey is the standard T-shirting fabric; it has a definite right and wrong side, and the edges tend to curl toward the right side when stretched. Interlock is a ‘double knit’ fabric, meaning it is thicker, looks the same on both sides, and does not curl at the edges. Interlock is easier to sew but is generally heavier than your standard T-shirt material.

Wavy seams are usually caused by the sewing machine pulling or stretching the fabric as you sew. To prevent this, use a ballpoint or stretch needle and avoid pulling the fabric through the machine—let the feed dogs do the work. Using a ‘walking foot’ or a specialized ‘knit stitch’ (a narrow zig-zag) will also help the seam move with the fabric rather than distorting it.

Yes, cotton jersey is prone to shrinking, often by as much as 5 to 7 percent during the first wash. Because T-shirts are usually close-fitting, even a small amount of shrinkage can ruin the fit of a finished garment. We strongly recommend pre-washing and drying your T-shirting fabric before cutting your pattern pieces to ensure your T-shirt stays the perfect size.